This classic Melbourne pub has entered a new era

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Now in the hands of Morris Hospitality (Portsea Hotel, Albert Park Hotel, and more), this benchmark of pub dining has entered a new era. While the interior has been refreshed, the most notable change is in the menu, which zigs where others zag. Ex-Oakridge chef Aaron Brodie throws wildcards like char siu octopus skewers and wild boar pies alongside levelled-up classics (that pie is only $34 on Mondays, including a glass of Save Our Souls pinot noir). Fish and chips come with a tartare-inspired beurre blanc, while a wagyu patty and smoked raclette give the cheeseburger X-factor.

Brodie is controversially “not a huge fan of parmas”, but a German Holstein fills the void. Veal topside sourced by meat supplier Flinders + Co is coated in parmesan-spiked panko. A fried free-range egg is true to tradition, accompanied by two pickled elements – white anchovies and shallots – “to help cut through the richness”, plus crispy capers, a red-wine and brown-butter sauce, and a sauerkraut-like side of cabbage and carrot.

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