Best of both worlds: These cities are two holidays in one
History and culture or energetic contemporary life? Skyscrapers or old towns? Are you in the mood for a wild shopping spree or a sedate trawl through ancient artefacts? Such are the choices we’re confronted with when trying to choose a city stay.
It doesn’t always have to be a dilemma, though. You don’t have to choose one thing or another. Look to conjoined cities and you’ll get contrasting experiences.
Hop from one to the other as the mood takes you and have two distinct urban getaways for the price of one.
There are many kinds of double cities. Some can hardly be separated, like Rome and the Vatican embedded within it, or Dallas and Fort Worth, now considered a single and hyphenated city.
Some have been separated by the vagaries of history, such as Cieszyn and Cesky Tesin, bisected by the Polish-Czech border. Others are new cities cheek by jowl with older ones, such as Gdynia, the handsome 19th-century alternative to medieval Hanseatic trading town Gdansk.
What they all offer, though, is two experiences in one. Each half has their own particular history and character, their own attractions, their own reasons for meriting a visit. The good news is that you don’t have to choose if you have double vision but can enjoy both of the world’s best twinned cities, as this special guide demonstrates.
Buda and Pest, Hungary
Seeing double The classic two cities in one, Buda and Pest, separated by the Danube River, were only officially united in 1873. Older Buda on the western riverbank is hilly, imperial and posh. Eastern-bank Pest is bourgeois, commercial and buzzing with contemporary life.
One half In Buda, Castle Hill has fabulous views from the terraces of the royal palace and Hungarian National Gallery, which houses impressive medieval art. Nearby is Matthias Church, much-visited Fisherman’s Bastion with more great outlooks, and a charming baroque town of pastel houses.
The other half Pest’s chief attractions are the splendid pseudo-Gothic Parliament, Hungarian National Museum and Museum of Fine Arts, particularly for its Eastern European painting. Dohany Street Synagogue is one of the world’s largest and most beautiful. Pest is crammed with restaurants, cafes and shopping drags such as Vaci, Kossuth and Kiraly streets, while ruin pubs turn dilapidated buildings into cheap, retro-hip drinking venues.
And the better half is… Apart from its liveliness, Pest wins for its beautiful architecture: much of its development coincided with the art nouveau movement. Expect a crick in your neck because there are magnificent buildings everywhere.
See budapestinfo.hu
Shanghai and Pudong, China
Seeing double Shanghai is new by Chinese standards, but Pudong, across the sluggish Huangpu River, is newer still. In the 1980s it was farmland. That makes Shanghai feel historical, while Pudong is crowded with skyscrapers and known for entertainment, restaurants and nightlife.
One half Shanghai, particularly its famous Bund and French Concession district, has notable art deco heritage that recalls the city’s European-influenced 1930s exuberance. West Bund is the new arts district. Chief sights are Longhua Temple and classical Yu Garden. Shanghai Museum has terrific collections of bronzes, sculptures and ceramics.
The other half Pudong’s skyscrapers include the first (but still futuristic-looking) Oriental Pearl Tower, Shanghai World Financial Centre with its 477-metre-high observation deck, and Shanghai Tower, at 632 metres, China’s tallest building. Other attractions are Shanghai Science and Technology Museum, Shanghai Ocean Aquarium and Shanghai Disney Resort. Huge malls include Super Brand, IFC and Nextage. Beautifully landscaped Century Park and Century Boulevard are green escapes.
And the better half is… Shanghai’s history is irrelevant on a Chinese timescale. Pudong showcases China’s forward-looking momentum, and its contemporary attractions are a foil to the cultural ones you’ll see everywhere else.
Istanbul and Galata, Turkey
Seeing double Istanbul, one-time Constantinople and Byzantium, has history and big monuments. Galata across the Golden Horn waterway connected by the lively Galata Bridge, was a Genoese trading colony, then the city’s multicultural commercial centre, and now has great shopping, dining and an everyday vibe.
One half Istanbul has splendid Byzantine and Islamic monuments that include church-turned-mosque Aya Sophia, several stunning 16th-century mosques, the Grand Bazaar and vast Topkapi Palace, crammed with sultan-era treasures. Among excellent museums are the Archaeological Museum and Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum.
The other half Galata’s waterfronts have been recently redeveloped and crowned with a fine cruise terminal and the lavish Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. Historic neighbourhoods rise behind, then dense shopping streets centred on trendy Istiklal Caddesi and jam-packed (and sometimes protest-lively) Taksim Square. Don’t miss Pera Museum for its Ottoman collections.
And the better half is… Controversial, because you’ll want to see the big sights, but Galata gives you a better flavour of this vibrant, modern city. Base yourself there: it has many boutique hotels, great restaurants and bars, and many cultural and style centres.
See goturkiye.com
Ottawa and Gatineau, Canada
Seeing double French-speaking Gatineau on the Ottawa River’s northern bank is in Quebec; English-speaking Ottawa across the water is in Ontario. Gatineau has parks, a brilliant museum and outdoor life, Ottawa national buildings, markets and more museums.
One half Ottawa is a modest capital embedded in gardens and promenades and dominated by its neo-Gothic parliament building. Government budgets bequeath it good museums, of which the Canadian Aviation and Space Museum is one of the world’s best for aircraft. ByWard Market is a flavoursome showcase of multi-ethnic Canadian food.
The other half Head across Alexandra Bridge (great views) to Gatineau. Its outdoorsy appeal culminates in humungous Gatineau Park, which has head-clearing hiking trails. The best sight on any side of the river is the Canadian Museum of History, a wonderful wander from totem poles and First Nations lodges to log cabins, fortified early European settlements and a 1960s airport lounge. Informative touchscreens and headphones will make you linger.
And the better half is… Can they be separated? The two are like a mini-Canada that condenses the aspirations of Canadians into one pleasing, bilingual, cosmopolitan and quirky package. Oh, okay: Ottawa wins.
See ottawatourism.ca, tourismeoutaouais.com
Copenhagen, Denmark and Malmo, Sweden
Seeing double Only 30 kilometres separate these two cities linked across the Oresund Strait by bridge and tunnel since 2000. Copenhagen has historical, royal and cultural clout. Malmo is a thrusting, 21st-century city with an arty, progressive vibe.
One half Copenhagen has top museums including the National Gallery, Royal Museum for Fine Arts, and David Collection for Islamic art. Then there are royal sights such as Amalienborg (our Australian queen’s residence) and Rosenborg, which houses the crown jewels. Trendy Vesterbro and Norrebro neighbourhoods get you beyond the tourist trail.
The other half Glass skyscrapers, sprawling parks and cafes and bars define Malmo, although it has a few remnants from its 16th-century Danish heyday, such as main square Stortorget and a small castle. Get some stylish Nordic shopping in along Sodergatan and Sodra Forstadsgatan. Then check out the new waterfront and recreational development Vastra Hamnen, topped by the superb “Twisting Torso” skyscraper.
And the better half is… Copenhagen has far more beautiful buildings, better museums and richer history yet shares Malmo’s progressive, experimental vibe. For families, it has more child-friendly sights, museums and a zoo.
See visitcopenhagen.com, malmo.se
Washington DC and Georgetown, US
Seeing double Although considered a Washington neighbourhood, Georgetown was long an independent municipality, and its 1751 founding predates the American capital’s by 40 years. Its charm and liveliness contrast with Washington’s gravitas and monuments.
One half The political core of DC is grand, graceful and dotted with iconic monuments set in parkland, among them the Washington Monument, Capitol, Lincoln Memorial, Jefferson Memorial and the White House. The capital also has some of the world’s best museums, many with free entry, including to the varied branches of the Smithsonian.
The other half Georgetown is less grand and has tranquil streets lined by fine old homes. Take a historical walking tour to admire various significant buildings, embassies and Georgetown University – plus the fine Oak Hill Cemetery. This is also a top shopping, dining and bar-hopping destination, with M Street and Wisconsin Avenue a revellers’ hotspot on weekends.
And the better half is… Washington DC of course because it showcases both what the US aspires to and has become – plus it inevitably feels as if you’ve strayed into the set of a thriller or spy series.
See washington.org
Rio De Janiero and Niteroi, Brazil
Seeing double Just across Guanabara Bay by bridge or ferry, Niteroi lacks Rio’s stunning setting, history and raucous life, but has terrific views, a slower and more neighbourly atmosphere, and several cultural attractions.
One half The statue of Christ the Redeemer stands over the strikingly humped outcrops, sumptuous bays and glorious beaches of Rio. Seaside neighbourhoods Urca and Niteroi are lovely. Copacabana and Ipamema are for beachgoers, Arpoador for surfers. Centro in contrast offers history, colonial-era architecture, ornate churches and museums.
The other half Niteroi is largely ignored by tourists but has appeal, starting with the esplanades at Icarai beach, the scenically sited ruins of old Portuguese fortifications, and the eye-catching building that houses the Museum of Contemporary Art, designed by great Brazilian modernist architect Oscar Niemeyer. Linger in hilltop Parque da Cidade for one of the best sunset panoramas in the world.
And the better half is… Okay, Rio is never going to be outdone. It doesn’t just have one of the world’s best natural settings but is seductive and spirited. It has street markets, grand cafes and a sophisticated nightlife too.
See visitrio.com.br, visit.niteroi.br
East and West Berlin, Germany
Seeing double Differences remain in the now-unified capital, divided by politics after World War II and by a wall between 1961 and 1989. Former East Berlin is grittier and more creative, and has a noticeably different, Soviet-influenced architectural heritage.
One half In West Berlin, Kreuzberg is the home of immigrants and alternative folk and has a lively, arty vibe and terrific nightlife. Vast Tiergarten encompasses meadows and lakes and the Berlin Zoo, and is scattered with monuments. The old airport at Tempelhof is now Europe’s largest monument. Charlottenburg is a baroque Prussian palace surrounded by formal gardens.
The other half East Berlin bags Museum Island with its superb antiquities and European paintings. Nikolai is the closest the bombed-out city gets to an old town. Former working-class Scheunenviertel has tangled streets now claimed by hip hotels, boutiques and nightclubs. Neighbouring Prenzlauer Berg has Jewish history, pleasing architecture and ethnic eateries.
And the better half is… This city’s unusual modern history is what makes it fascinating. We love both these conjoined twins, whose shared sights include the Brandenburg Gate and remaining sections of Berlin Wall.
See visitberlin.de
Singapore and Johor Bahru, Malaysia
Seeing double Twenty kilometres separate one downtown from the other but the causeway that links Singapore to the Malaysian mainland is only a kilometre long. Johor Bahru is more Malay, less Chinese, not as uptight, and enjoying a boom.
One half Civic District is Singapore’s colonial core, but other worthy neighbourhoods include Chinatown, Little India and Arab Street. Sentosa Island offers a beachy getaway. Among numerous sights are the Asian Civilizations Museum, the wonderful Gardens by the Bay and Botanic Gardens, and Singapore Zoo. Singapore has some of the world’s best restaurants and bars, plus bargain-priced hawker centres.
The other half Johor Bahru used to be dishevelled, but an overhaul has positioned it as an entertainment city. Its revamped heritage centre, with its shophouses and temples, has newfound contemporary style and abundant eateries. The sultan’s palace houses the Royal Abu Bakar Museum, one of Malaysia’s best. Family-friendly attractions include Legoland Malaysia theme park.
And the better half is… For all Johor Bahru’s efforts, it can’t compete with Singapore’s organisation, cleanliness, abundant green spaces and variety of attractions. Singapore also wins for its multi-ethnic neighbourhoods and cuisines.
See visitsingapore.com, tourismjohor.my
Luxor and Western Thebes, Egypt
Seeing double Modern Luxor on the east bank of the Nile has vibrant contemporary life and staggering temples; the west bank is lightly populated and more a city of the dead thanks to its ancient mortuary tombs.
One half Luxor has three great ancient sights: Luxor Temple, vast Karnak temple complex at the other end of the restored Avenue of the Sphinxes, and the creepy but fascinating Mummification Museum. There’s also a lively corniche with views over the Nile (wonderful at sunset) and great opportunities to shop, whether you’re after kitschy Egyptian memorabilia or fine handicrafts.
The other half Western Thebes is honeycombed with royal and aristocratic tombs, the most famous of which belongs to boy pharaoh Tutankhamun, although the best for the quality of their frescoes are those of Rameses III and Seti I. The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut is astonishing for its size and elaborate decorations.
And the better half is… Although Luxor and Karnak temples are superb, we love the desert silence and haunting tombs of Western Thebes, and especially the chance to get away from tourist crowds at the less-visited Tombs of the Nobles.
Five more ways to see double
Landmarks
Uluru and Kata Tjuta in the Red Centre are united in a rust-red national park, but too little time is budgeted for the latter. Both are superb outcrops of 600-million-year-old rocks of intense colour and drama, and of immense spiritual significance to local Indigenous people. The four-hour Valley of the Winds trail in Kata Tjuta, where finches twitter and budgerigars flash emerald against red rock, is magnificent. See northernterritory.com
Rivers
You get the Dordogne and Garonne rivers plus the wide Gironde Estuary on a meandering river cruise in the Bordeaux region of south-west France, which starts and finishes in Bordeaux, one of France’s finest and liveliest cities. Landscapes are almost flat, but vineyards produce world-famous wines, and sights include Blaye citadel, beautiful limestone town Saint-Emilion, historic Bergerac, and the delights of various chateaux. See bordeaux-tourism.co.uk
Villages
As the name suggests, you’ll be wowed by not one or two but five former fishing villages in Italy’s Cinque Terre, which you can link on a super-scenic coastal hike. All feature multi-coloured houses surrounded by olive orchards that teeter on cliffs above the Mediterranean. The biggest village – and the best base – is Monterosso, but the best might be Vernazza, sandwiched between a pretty harbour and hilltop castle. See cinqueterre.it
Waterfalls
Forget two, how about 275 waterfalls, some of which are higher or wider than Niagara? You do, though, get two countries, with the Argentine falls wilder and more dramatic because you get right up close to the thundering cascades. But the Brazilian falls offer wider, more panoramic views. Subtropical rainforest full of birds, butterflies and orchids are a bonus in both countries. See iguazuargentina.com, visitbrasil.com
Ski resorts
Les Trois Vallees in the French Alps gives you three valleys, seven ski resorts and 600 kilometres of runs to create the world’s most extensive ski field, plus lots of cross-country skiing options. Among the resorts is posh Megeve, closed to traffic for the benefit of billionaires ambling towards champagne bars. Courchevel may have the best views, since it gazes onto Mont Blanc and abundant other peaks. See les3vallees.com