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Besha Rodell

Chief restaurant critic

Besha Rodell is the chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.

Lunch at Tedesca Osteria begins with an opening bracket of snacks.
Good Food hatGood Food hat17/20

‘This is how it should be’: Join the waitlist for a shot at Victoria’s perfect long lunch

I had my doubts when hearing gushing accounts from other diners, but I fell into the embrace of two-hatted Tedesca Osteria’s relaxed hospitality, writes Besha Rodell.

  • Besha Rodell
Inside Ho Jiak, Junda Khoo’s fine-dining restaurant inside the middle of his three-storey complex.
14/20

A couple visiting Ho Jiak looked around in confusion. I can see why

Is trailblazing Sydney chef Junda Khoo’s ambitious Malaysian fine diner more ’80s hotel restaurant or a place for a big night out?

  • Besha Rodell
Assorted dishes at Cherrywood at Residence.
14/20

Gallery restaurant Cherrywood combines two of Melbourne’s loves

The entire foundation of the Ian Potter Museum’s restaurant, including its location and business model, makes a good case that yes, food is art.

  • Besha Rodell
Chef Paul Carmichael at Kabawa in New York City, on Manhattan’s Lower East Side.

What Momofuku’s Paul Carmichael did next – and how Australia lost one of its best chefs to New York

The former Momofuku Seiobo chef longed to fulfil his creative vision in Sydney, but the lure of Manhattan has scuttled those plans – for now.

  • Besha Rodell
Harriot restaurant.
Good Food hat15/20

Its sibling is unmistakably Melbourne, but does Harriot have the same pulling power?

The latest restaurant from the team behind Tipo 00 is difficult to define.

  • Besha Rodell
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Edita’s fish burger has a cult following.
Critics' Pick

The viral fish burger might catch your eye, but it’s not our critic’s go-to order at Edita’s

The new-school fish-and-chip shop combines Pacific Islander family traditions with Melbourne’s love for fried and battered meat, seafood and potatoes.

  • Besha Rodell
The prime burger at Cutler.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

‘Ordering a burger here seems weird’: Our critic reviews Cutler’s flexible new menu

The restaurant formerly known as Cutler and Co. switches from pricey degustation dining to a more casual format.

  • Besha Rodell
Melbourne’s Ministry of Crab.
Good Food hat15/20

It borders on cringe, but this international seafood chain restaurant is hat-worthy

There are so many things here that feel positively out of place in Melbourne in 2025. But the service is faultless, and the crabs are exceptionally good.

  • Besha Rodell
Jia-Yen (J.Y.) Lee (left) and Thi Le’s Anchovy is celebrating 10 years in business.
Good Food hat15/20

Why Anchovy is a shining example of what makes Melbourne a great restaurant town

Thi Le and J.Y. Lee’s Viet-Australian restaurant is not a slick machine, but it has soul − and creativity − in spades.

  • Besha Rodell
Knafeh Nabulseyeh’s chicken shawarma wrap.
Critics' Pick

I’ve waited up to half an hour for this $16 shawarma. I’d do it again in a heartbeat

Besha Rodell is a sucker for shawarma, and Knafeh Nabulseyeh’s perfectly proportioned wrap is her latest obsession.

  • Besha Rodell